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Unraveling the Molecular Mechanisms of Synthetic Acetyl Hexapeptide in E-Cadherin Activation for Tissue Rejuvenation
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A Conceptual Engineering Approach to Developing a Bio-Based Hair Mask
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Efficacy of a New Non-Invasive System Delivering Microwave Energy for the Treatment of Abdominal Adipose Tissue: Results of an Immunohistochemical Study
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Production and Characterization of Semi-Solid Formulations for the Delivery of the Cosmetic Peptide Palmitoyl-GHK
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Aesthetic Gynecology and Mental Health: What Does It Really Mean for Women?
Journal Description
Cosmetics
Cosmetics
is an international, scientific, peer-reviewed, open access journal on the science and technology of cosmetics published bimonthly online by MDPI.
- Open Access— free for readers, with article processing charges (APC) paid by authors or their institutions.
- High Visibility: indexed within Scopus, ESCI (Web of Science), CAPlus / SciFinder, and other databases.
- Journal Rank: JCR - Q1 (Dermatology) / CiteScore - Q1 (Surgery)
- Rapid Publication: manuscripts are peer-reviewed and a first decision is provided to authors approximately 22.5 days after submission; acceptance to publication is undertaken in 3.9 days (median values for papers published in this journal in the first half of 2025).
- Recognition of Reviewers: reviewers who provide timely, thorough peer-review reports receive vouchers entitling them to a discount on the APC of their next publication in any MDPI journal, in appreciation of the work done.
Impact Factor:
3.2 (2024);
5-Year Impact Factor:
3.9 (2024)
Latest Articles
An Adhesive Peptide Derived from Mussel Protein Alleviates LL37-Induced Rosacea Through Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-Angiogenic Mechanisms
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 143; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040143 (registering DOI) - 4 Jul 2025
Abstract
Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin condition characterized by persistent erythema and telangiectasia, often accompanied by skin barrier disruption and abnormal angiogenesis. Currently, peptide-based therapies for rosacea are limited, and existing drugs still present certain limitations and side effects. Peptides have the advantage
[...] Read more.
Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin condition characterized by persistent erythema and telangiectasia, often accompanied by skin barrier disruption and abnormal angiogenesis. Currently, peptide-based therapies for rosacea are limited, and existing drugs still present certain limitations and side effects. Peptides have the advantage of being relatively safe and exhibiting high target specificity, which can reduce the risk of adverse effects. Considering these points, this study aimed to explore the adhesive peptide AdhPep3 (AYDPGYK) as a potential therapeutic candidate for rosacea. AdhPep3 was designed based on protein sequences with cell junction properties and has the potential to enhance skin barrier-related protein expression by improving cell–cell adhesion and increasing adhesion-related protein levels. In LL-37-stimulated HaCaT cells, AdhPep3 effectively alleviated skin inflammation and inhibited the Toll-like receptor–nuclear factor kappa B (TLR2–NFκB) signaling pathway. Additionally, in LL-37-stimulated human umbilical vein endothelial cells (HUVECs), it reduced cell migration and the expression of angiogenesis-related proteins. Since AdhPep3 demonstrated anti-inflammatory and anti-angiogenic effects at the in vitro level, it may serve as a potential therapeutic agent for rosacea. Moreover, by increasing the expression of skin barrier and tight junction-related proteins, AdhPep3 shows potential for development as a cosmetic ingredient to improve skin health.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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Open AccessReview
Cosmeceutical and Dermatological Potential of Olive Mill Wastewater: A Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Source of Natural Ingredients
by
Adriana Albini, Paola Corradino, Danilo Morelli, Francesca Albini and Douglas Noonan
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 142; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040142 - 3 Jul 2025
Abstract
Olive oil and its derivatives, particularly polyphenol-rich extracts, are valued for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and regenerative properties. Olive mill wastewater (OMWW), a byproduct of olive oil production, traditionally seen as an environmental pollutant, has emerged as a promising source of high-value dermatological ingredients.
[...] Read more.
Olive oil and its derivatives, particularly polyphenol-rich extracts, are valued for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and regenerative properties. Olive mill wastewater (OMWW), a byproduct of olive oil production, traditionally seen as an environmental pollutant, has emerged as a promising source of high-value dermatological ingredients. Key polyphenols such as hydroxytyrosol, oleuropein, and tyrosol exhibit potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and photoprotective effects. These compounds mitigate oxidative stress, prevent collagen degradation, modulate NF-κB and MAPK signaling, and promote cellular repair and regeneration. Skin health is increasingly recognized as crucial to overall well-being, driving interest in cosmeceuticals that combine cosmetic benefits with dermatological activity. This review examines the cosmeceutical and dermatological potential of OMWW, highlighting its incorporation into innovative topical formulations like oil-in-water nanoemulsions, liposomes, and microneedles that enhance skin penetration and bioavailability. Additionally, OMWW fractions have shown selective antiproliferative effects on melanoma cells, suggesting potential for skin cancer prevention. Valorization of OMWW through biorefinery processes aligns with circular-economy principles, converting agro-industrial waste into sustainable cosmeceutical ingredients. This approach not only meets consumer demand for natural, effective products, but also reduces the ecological footprint of olive oil production, offering a scalable, eco-friendly strategy for next-generation dermatological applications.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Useful from Useless: Development of Cosmetics from Agri-Food By-Products)
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Open AccessArticle
Development and Optimization of a Quercetin-Loaded Chitosan Lactate Nanoparticle Hydrogel with Antioxidant and Antibacterial Properties for Topical Skin Applications
by
Raghda Yazidi, Majdi Hammami, Hamza Ghadhoumi, Ameni Ben Abdennebi, Sawssen Selmi, Kamel Zayani, Karima Horchani-Naifer, Iness Bettaieb Rebey and Moufida Saidani Tounsi
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 141; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040141 - 3 Jul 2025
Abstract
Nanotechnology has revolutionized dermocosmetic innovation by improving the stability, bioavailability, and efficacy of active ingredients. In this study, we developed and optimized a novel xanthan gum-based hydrogel containing quercetin-loaded chitosan lactate nanoparticles for antioxidant and antimicrobial skincare applications. Chitosan was converted to its
[...] Read more.
Nanotechnology has revolutionized dermocosmetic innovation by improving the stability, bioavailability, and efficacy of active ingredients. In this study, we developed and optimized a novel xanthan gum-based hydrogel containing quercetin-loaded chitosan lactate nanoparticles for antioxidant and antimicrobial skincare applications. Chitosan was converted to its lactate form to enhance water solubility and enable nanoparticle formation at physiological pH via ionic gelation with citric acid. The formulation was optimized using Box–Behnken response surface methodology to achieve minimal particle size and maximal zeta potential. The final gel was structured with xanthan gum as the gelling polymer, into which the optimized nanoparticles were incorporated to create a stable and bioactive hydrogel system. Encapsulation efficiency was measured separately to assess the effectiveness of drug loading. The optimized nanoparticles exhibited a mean diameter of 422.02 nm, a zeta potential of +29.49 mV, and a high quercetin encapsulation efficiency (76.9%), corresponding to the proportion of quercetin retained in the nanoparticle matrix relative to the total amount initially used in the formulation. Antioxidant assays (TAC, DPPH, and reducing power) confirmed superior radical-scavenging activity of the nanoformulation compared to the base hydrogel. Antibacterial tests showed strong inhibition against Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Staphylococcus aureus, with MIC values comparable to streptomycin. Accelerated stability studies demonstrated excellent physicochemical and microbiological stability over 60 days. This natural, bioactive, and eco-friendly formulation represents a promising platform for next-generation cosmeceuticals targeting oxidative stress and skin-related pathogens.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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Open AccessReview
Officinal Plants as New Frontiers of Cosmetic Ingredients
by
Annabella Vitalone, Lucia D’Andrea, Antonella Di Sotto, Alessandra Caruso and Rita Parente
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 140; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040140 - 3 Jul 2025
Abstract
In recent years, cosmetic science has adopted a more integrative approach to skincare, in which sensory experience and psychophysical well-being are increasingly valued. In this context, plant-derived ingredients, particularly those from officinal species, are gaining attention for their multifunctional bioactivities. This review explores
[...] Read more.
In recent years, cosmetic science has adopted a more integrative approach to skincare, in which sensory experience and psychophysical well-being are increasingly valued. In this context, plant-derived ingredients, particularly those from officinal species, are gaining attention for their multifunctional bioactivities. This review explores a curated selection of medicinal plants widely used or emerging in dermocosmetics, highlighting their phytochemical composition, mechanisms of action, and experimental support. A narrative literature review was conducted using databases such as PubMed and Scopus, targeting studies on topical cosmetic applications. Results show that many officinal plants, including Camellia sinensis, Panax ginseng, and Mentha piperita, offer antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, photoprotective, and anti-aging benefits. Less conventional species, such as Drosera ramentacea and Kigelia africana, demonstrated depigmenting and wound-healing potential. In particular, bioactive constituents like flavonoids, iridoids, saponins, and polyphenols act on key skin targets such as COX-2, MMPs, tyrosinase, and the Nrf2 pathway. These findings underscore the potential of botanical extracts to serve as effective, natural, and multifunctional agents in modern skincare. While only Mentha piperita is currently recognized as a traditional herbal medicinal product for dermatological use, this research supports the broader dermocosmetic integration of these species.
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(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
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Open AccessArticle
Safety Profile and Efficacy of Biosea® Revive Serum for Hair Growth Through In Vitro Assessment and Clinical Evaluation
by
Chi-Ju Wu, Chun-Yin Yang, Pamela Berilyn So, Hui-Yu Hu, Shang-Hsuan Yang, Hsiang-Ming Hsueh, Tzu-Hui Wu and Feng-Lin Yen
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 139; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040139 - 1 Jul 2025
Abstract
Excessive hair loss can negatively impact psychological well-being and personal appearance. Providing effective hair growth products containing natural ingredients to people with hair loss can solve this problem. This study investigates Biosea® Revive serum (BRS), a novel hair care product containing biotinoyl
[...] Read more.
Excessive hair loss can negatively impact psychological well-being and personal appearance. Providing effective hair growth products containing natural ingredients to people with hair loss can solve this problem. This study investigates Biosea® Revive serum (BRS), a novel hair care product containing biotinoyl tripeptide-1 and Phyllanthus emblica fruit extract as the main ingredients, as a natural intervention for hair growth. Results from the in vitro study demonstrates that BRS not only increased human hair dermal papilla cell (HHDPC) cell proliferation, but also reduced reactive oxygen species generation and 5α-reductase expression when compared to the control group, with BRS showing similar effect to the positive control, minoxidil. In addition, a 90-day clinical trial with 40 participants (KMUHIRB-F(I)-20230125; approval date: 18 August 2023) was conducted to assess the effectiveness and safety of BRS. The results revealed that BRS can improve hair density and quality in both men and women participants, with a significant reduction in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in women (p < 0.05). Moreover, there were no adverse effects on blood parameters or scalp irritation reported after BRS treatment. In conclusion, we suggest that BRS offers a safe and effective solution for improving hair follicle health and is suitable for long-term use.
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(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
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Engineering a Polyacrylamide/Polydopamine Adhesive Hydrogel Patch for Sustained Transdermal Vitamin E Delivery
by
Yejin Kim, Juhyeon Kim, Dongmin Yu, Taeho Kim, Jonghyun Park, Juyeon Lee, Sohyeon Yu, Dongseong Seo, Byoungsoo Kim, Simseok A. Yuk, Daekyung Sung and Hyungjun Kim
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 138; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040138 - 1 Jul 2025
Abstract
A transdermal drug delivery system based on hydrogel patches was explored, leveraging their sustained release properties and biocompatibility. Despite these advantages, conventional hydrogels often lack proper adhesion to the skin, limiting their practical application. To address this issue, we designed a skin-adhesive hydrogel
[...] Read more.
A transdermal drug delivery system based on hydrogel patches was explored, leveraging their sustained release properties and biocompatibility. Despite these advantages, conventional hydrogels often lack proper adhesion to the skin, limiting their practical application. To address this issue, we designed a skin-adhesive hydrogel using a polyacrylamide (PAM)/polydopamine (PDA) dual-network structure. The matrix combines the mechanical toughness of PAM with the strong adhesive properties of PDA, derived from mussel foot proteins, enabling firm tissue attachment and robust performance under physiological conditions. To demonstrate its applicability, the hydrogel was integrated with poly(lactic-co-glycolic acid) (PLGA) nanoparticles encapsulating the hydrophobic antioxidant vitamin E as a model compound. The resulting PAM/PDA@VitE hydrogel system exhibited improved swelling behavior, high water retention, and prolonged release of α-tocopherol. These results suggest that the PAM/PDA hydrogel platform is a versatile vehicle not only for vitamin E, but also for the transdermal delivery of various cosmetic and therapeutic agents.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Collection Editorial Board Members' Collection Series: "Novel Delivery Systems for Dermocosmetic Applications")
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The Importance of Cosmetics in Oncological Patients. Survey of Tolerance of Routine Cosmetic Care in Oncological Patients
by
María-Elena Fernández-Martín, Jose V. Tarazona, Natalia Hernández-Cano and Ander Mayor Ibarguren
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 137; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040137 - 27 Jun 2025
Abstract
The expected cutaneous adverse effects (CAE) of oncology therapies can be disabling and even force the patient to discontinue treatment. The incorporation of cosmetics into skin care regimens (SCRs) as true therapeutic adjuvants can prevent, control, and avoid sequelae. However, cosmetics may also
[...] Read more.
The expected cutaneous adverse effects (CAE) of oncology therapies can be disabling and even force the patient to discontinue treatment. The incorporation of cosmetics into skin care regimens (SCRs) as true therapeutic adjuvants can prevent, control, and avoid sequelae. However, cosmetics may also lead to adverse reactions in patients. The aim of our study was to assess the impact of the tolerability of cosmetics used in routine skin care on quality of life in this vulnerable population group through a survey. In addition, information was collected to improve the knowledge of the beneficial effects of cosmetics and the composition recommended. Hospital nurses guided the patients to fill in the surveys, which were done once. The main uses are related to daily hygiene care, photoprotection, and dermo-cosmetic treatment to prevent or at least reduce the skin’s adverse effects. More than 30% (36.36%) of patients perceived undesirable effects or discomfort with the use of cosmetics (27.27% in the facial area, 27.27% in the body and hands, and 22.73% in the scalp and hair). Intolerance was described for some soaps and creams used in the facial area. This study provides additional evidence on perceived tolerance supporting updates of clinical practice guidelines, highlights consolidated knowledge and evidence on the use of cosmetics, as well as new recommendations on the use and composition of cosmetics intended for oncological patients. There is a need for more knowledge about cosmetic ingredients and formulations, including ingredients of concern, such as endocrine disruptors.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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Digital Tools in Action: 3D Printing for Personalized Skincare in the Era of Beauty Tech
by
Sara Bom, Pedro Contreiras Pinto, Helena Margarida Ribeiro and Joana Marto
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 136; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040136 - 25 Jun 2025
Abstract
3D printing (3DP) enables the development of highly customizable skincare solutions, offering precise control over formulation, structure, and aesthetic properties. Therefore, this study explores the impact of patches’ microstructure on hydration efficacy using conventional and advanced chemical/morphological confocal techniques. Moreover, it advances to
[...] Read more.
3D printing (3DP) enables the development of highly customizable skincare solutions, offering precise control over formulation, structure, and aesthetic properties. Therefore, this study explores the impact of patches’ microstructure on hydration efficacy using conventional and advanced chemical/morphological confocal techniques. Moreover, it advances to the personalization of under-eye 3D-printed skincare patches and assesses consumer acceptability through emotional sensing, providing a comparative analysis against a non-3D-printed market option. The results indicate that increasing the patches’ internal porosity enhances water retention in the stratum corneum (53.0 vs. 45.4% µm). Additionally, patches were personalized to address individual skin needs/conditions (design and bioactive composition) and consumer preferences (color and fragrance). The affective analysis indicated a high level of consumer acceptance for the 3D-printed option, as evidenced by the higher valence (14.5 vs. 1.1 action units) and arousal (4.2 vs. 2.7 peaks/minute) scores. These findings highlight the potential of 3DP for personalized skincare, demonstrating how structural modifications can modulate hydration. Furthermore, the biometric-preference digital approach employed offers unparalleled versatility, enabling rapid customization to meet the unique requirements of different skin types. By embracing this advancement, a new era of personalized skincare emerges, where cutting-edge science powers solutions for enhanced skin health and consumer satisfaction.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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Clinical Efficacy and Safety Evaluation of a Centella asiatica (CICA)-Derived Extracellular Vesicle Formulation for Anti-Aging Skincare
by
Hannah S. Park and Sehyun Shin
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 135; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040135 - 25 Jun 2025
Abstract
Centella asiatica (CICA)-derived exosomes have emerged as bioactive agents for skin rejuvenation due to their regenerative and anti-inflammatory properties. This study evaluated the safety and efficacy of a topical ampoule containing CICA-derived extracellular vesicles (EVs) in healthy Korean adults. This human application study
[...] Read more.
Centella asiatica (CICA)-derived exosomes have emerged as bioactive agents for skin rejuvenation due to their regenerative and anti-inflammatory properties. This study evaluated the safety and efficacy of a topical ampoule containing CICA-derived extracellular vesicles (EVs) in healthy Korean adults. This human application study was conducted over a 15-day period, during which the test formulation was topically applied to the skin following a controlled regimen. A 24-h patch test with 30 participants confirmed non-irritation (irritation index: 0.00). In a separate two-week trial (n = 20; mean age 50.7 years), 3D imaging and ultrasound assessed five-dimensional pore improvement (area, density, volume, filling, texture), wrinkle depth reduction in five facial regions, dermal hydration at 0.5, 1.5, and 2.5 mm depths, and skin density. Significant reductions were observed in mean pore area (−17.9%) and pore density (−26.9%), with a 9.0% decrease in surface roughness. Wrinkle depths decreased by 7.8–18.8% across the forehead, glabella, crow’s feet, nasolabial folds, and neck. Hydration increased by 7.9% at 0.5 mm, and dermal density improved by 12.7% (p < 0.05). These findings highlight the excellent skin compatibility and multifaceted cosmetic benefits of the formulation containing CICA-derived exosomes and other active ingredients, underscoring its potential as a safe, effective, and innovative anti-aging cosmetic agent.
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(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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Open AccessReview
Application Possibilities of Sustainable Nanostructured Silica-Based Materials in Cosmetics
by
Veronica Latini, Agnieszka Feliczak-Guzik and Agata Wawrzyńczak
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 134; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040134 - 25 Jun 2025
Abstract
Nanostructured silica-based materials, including mesoporous silica nanoparticles (SiNPs), show a wide range of applications in various areas, such as food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries. This is mainly due to their unique properties, namely biocompatibility, stability, adjustable pore size, a highly developed specific surface
[...] Read more.
Nanostructured silica-based materials, including mesoporous silica nanoparticles (SiNPs), show a wide range of applications in various areas, such as food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries. This is mainly due to their unique properties, namely biocompatibility, stability, adjustable pore size, a highly developed specific surface area, and simplicity in surface modification. Currently, special emphasis is placed on obtaining nanostructured silica-based materials using so-called green methods, which not only reduce toxic by-products, but also enable the use of raw materials from plants, agricultural and industrial waste, as well as bacteria or fungi. This trend is particularly evident in the cosmetic industry, which is striving to reduce the adverse environmental and social impacts of cosmetic production. Therefore, this article presents a review of the literature from the last ten years, which describes issues related to the possibilities of replacing synthetic silica-based ingredients in cosmetic products with their more environmentally friendly counterparts. Special emphasis has been placed on the application possibilities of sustainable nanostructured silica-based materials and their potential toxicity in topical formulations. The possibilities of obtaining nanostructured silica-based materials through green synthesis and using natural silica precursors have been briefly presented, as well as the options for modifying the surface of these materials.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)
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Assessment of Systemic Safety of Althaea rosea Flower Extract for Use in Cosmetics: Threshold of Toxicological Concern and History of Safe Consumption Approaches
by
Sangwon Gil and Kyung-Min Lim
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 133; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040133 - 24 Jun 2025
Abstract
Althaea rosea flower extract (ARFE) is widely used as a food and cosmetic ingredient. However, the systemic safety of ARFE for use in cosmetics has not been confirmed, yet. Here, we adopted the threshold of toxicological concern (TTC) and history of safe food
[...] Read more.
Althaea rosea flower extract (ARFE) is widely used as a food and cosmetic ingredient. However, the systemic safety of ARFE for use in cosmetics has not been confirmed, yet. Here, we adopted the threshold of toxicological concern (TTC) and history of safe food consumption approaches to evaluate the systemic safety of ARFE as a cosmetic ingredient. A systematic literature review identified 48 chemical constituents in ARFE, 92.6% of which are common food components. Through a literature review, 48 chemical constituents of ARFE were identified. To exclude the potential genotoxicity issues, in silico predictions of an in vitro AMES test and additional literature reviews were performed, demonstrating that all the chemical constituents of ARFE have no genotoxicity issues. To evaluate the systemic toxicity of ARFE, a comparison with the dietary intake of ARFE was performed. The daily dietary intake of ARFE through tea products was estimated to be 66.67 mg/kg/day. Since exposure to ARFE through cosmetic use ranges from 0.0045 to 5.380 mg/kg/day, which is far lower than dietary intake, it is unlikely to pose any additional health risk. The TTC approach along with in silico predictions of dermal absorption also revealed that systemic exposure doses (SEDs) of all the chemical constituents are below TTC thresholds, further supporting its systemic safety for use in cosmetics.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Topic New Challenges in the Cosmetics Industry)
Open AccessSystematic Review
The Role of African Medicinal Plants in Dermatological Treatments: A Systematic Review of Antimicrobial, Wound-Healing and Melanogenesis Inhibition
by
Lubna M. S. Elmahaishi, Farzana Fisher, Ahmed Hussein and Charlene W. J. Africa
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 132; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040132 - 24 Jun 2025
Abstract
Background: Medicinal plants are widely used across the globe as complementary and alternative therapies for managing various health conditions. The use of medicinal plants is a fundamental component of the African traditional healthcare system and most diverse therapeutic practices. Africa harbors a variety
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Background: Medicinal plants are widely used across the globe as complementary and alternative therapies for managing various health conditions. The use of medicinal plants is a fundamental component of the African traditional healthcare system and most diverse therapeutic practices. Africa harbors a variety of plant species, many of which are estimated to be endemic, making it a rich source of medicinal plants with potential relevance to human health. Aim of the study: The study aimed to review and highlight the information in the literature related to the antimicrobial activity, wound-healing activity, and melanogenesis inhibition of African medicinal plants. Methods: Following the Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analyses (PRISMA 2020) guidelines, a literature search was conducted on ScienceDirect, Google Scholar, Medline Ebscohost, and PubMed, which were searched for articles published between 2018 and 2024. Due to high heterogeneity and variability in study designs, data were synthesized using a narrative approach. Result: A total of 37 studies were included. Emilia coccinea, Entada africana, Trichilia dregeana, Physalis angulata, and Prunus africana demonstrated strong wound-healing activity (100%) at concentrations between 5 and 10%. For melanogenesis inhibition, Ormocarpum trichocarpum (IC50 = 2.95 µg/mL), Limonium cercinense (IC50 = 3 µg/mL), and L. boitardii (IC50 = 5 µg/mL) showed the most potent effects. The strongest antimicrobial effects were reported for Harpagophytum procumbens (MIC = 10 µg/mL) against Staphylococcus aureus and S. epidermidis and Pistacia atlantica (MIC = 78.1 µg/mL) against Listeria monocytogenes and Candida albicans (MIC = 39 µg/mL). Conclusions: This study highlights the broad therapeutic potential of African medicinal plant extracts in addressing various health conditions, including skin infections, wound management, and skin pigmentation. While several extracts demonstrated strong bioactivity, inconsistent reporting of statistical data limited quantitative synthesis. Future studies should adopt standardized methodologies and report complete statistical outcomes to enable robust meta-analyses and support clinical translation.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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Natural Plant-Based Rejuvenating Compositions: Human Study on Astragalus membranaceus and Centella asiatica Saponins for Skin Health
by
Leong-Perng Chan and Chia-Hua Liang
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 131; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040131 - 20 Jun 2025
Abstract
This study aimed to evaluate the effects of a proprietary plant-based formulation of Astragalus membranaceus and Centella asiatica saponins (ACS) on skin health, as both a cosmetic ingredient and a functional supplement. In this randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, 150 healthy adults were assigned
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This study aimed to evaluate the effects of a proprietary plant-based formulation of Astragalus membranaceus and Centella asiatica saponins (ACS) on skin health, as both a cosmetic ingredient and a functional supplement. In this randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, 150 healthy adults were assigned to groups using topical ACS cream, oral ACS capsules, combined treatments, or corresponding placebos. Skin brightness, moisture, elasticity, melanin value, pore count, texture, and collagen content were assessed over 4 to 12 weeks. After 4 weeks of topical ACS application, skin brightness improved by 2.5%, elasticity by 6.5%, melanin decreased by 5.2%, pores reduced by 10.6%, and collagen increased by 8.7% (p < 0.05). After 12 weeks of oral ACS, brightness, elasticity, texture, and collagen significantly improved (p < 0.05). The combined treatment group showed the greatest improvements, including a 4.2% increase in brightness, 12.9% increase in moisture, 9.0% elasticity increase, and a 28.5% reduction in pore count (p < 0.05). ACS, whether used topically, orally, or in combination, effectively enhances skin health and offers a natural solution for skin rejuvenation.
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(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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Open AccessArticle
Oxidative-Inflammatory Modulation of Skin Lipid Metabolism by Squalane, Oleic Acid, and Linoleic Acid
by
Wen-Rong Zhang, Qi-Rong Zhang, Zi-Yan Zhou, Yi-Fan Zhang, Xue-Wan Li, Hai-Yang Shen, Li-Feng Tang and Qi Xiang
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 130; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040130 - 20 Jun 2025
Abstract
Squalane (SQ, a saturated, sebum-mimetic hydrocarbon), oleic acid (OA, a monounsaturated fatty acid), and linoleic acid (LA, a polyunsaturated essential fatty acid) belong to the category of “lipids and fats” in cosmetic materials, and are widely employed as skin-conditioning emollients. However, they present
[...] Read more.
Squalane (SQ, a saturated, sebum-mimetic hydrocarbon), oleic acid (OA, a monounsaturated fatty acid), and linoleic acid (LA, a polyunsaturated essential fatty acid) belong to the category of “lipids and fats” in cosmetic materials, and are widely employed as skin-conditioning emollients. However, they present differences in UV stress. In this study, we compared their effects on UV-induced oxidative damage, inflammation, and lipid metabolism using a mouse model and human sebaceous gland cells (SZ95). Results showed that 10% SQ did not worsen oxidative damage or inflammation after 6 weeks of UV exposure. In contrast, the 5% and 10% OA/LA groups showed increased skin wrinkling (p < 0.01), epidermal thickening (p < 0.05), and sebaceous gland atrophy. Transcriptome analysis indicated OA/LA upregulated arachidonic acid-related cytokine pathways (PTGS2/IL-1β; p < 0.001). In SZ95 cells, 0.006% OA/LA significantly increased lipid droplet formation (p < 0.001), free fatty acid (FFA) levels (p < 0.001), and pro-inflammatory gene expression (p < 0.001). Conversely, SQ neither promoted lipid droplet/FFA secretion nor induced oxidative stress. These findings suggest that high concentrations of unsaturated fatty acids in skincare may worsen lipid dysregulation and inflammation, while formulations based on saturated hydrocarbons like SQ could provide superior photoaging management by stabilizing skin barrier function.
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(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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Open AccessSystematic Review
Skin Aging and Type I Collagen: A Systematic Review of Interventions with Potential Collagen-Related Effects
by
Ofek Bar and Skaidra Valiukevičienė
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 129; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040129 - 20 Jun 2025
Abstract
Aging leads to a decline in skin function due to intrinsic factors (genetics, hormones) and extrinsic factors (sun exposure, pollutants). Type I collagen plays a vital role in maintaining skin integrity and elasticity. As aging progresses, collagen synthesis diminishes, resulting in weakened skin
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Aging leads to a decline in skin function due to intrinsic factors (genetics, hormones) and extrinsic factors (sun exposure, pollutants). Type I collagen plays a vital role in maintaining skin integrity and elasticity. As aging progresses, collagen synthesis diminishes, resulting in weakened skin structure and wrinkle formation. This systematic review explores the role of type I collagen in skin aging by summarizing key clinical findings. A systematic search was conducted using PubMed and ScienceDirect as the primary databases, including studies published between 2014 and 2025 that addressed type I collagen and skin aging. Eleven clinical studies were selected following PRISMA guidelines. The results consistently show the decline of type I collagen as a central contributor to dermal thinning, loss of elasticity, and the appearance of wrinkles and sagging. Clinical trials demonstrate that collagen supplementation, particularly from hydrolyzed fish cartilage and low-molecular-weight peptides, enhances collagen production, improves skin hydration and texture, and reduces signs of photoaging. Overall, the evidence emphasizes the critical role of type I collagen in skin aging and suggests that targeted collagen supplementation may serve as an effective strategy to maintain skin structure and combat visible signs of aging.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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Open AccessCommunication
Sun Protection Products Protect Against UV-Induced Mitochondrial DNA Damage and Blue Light-Induced Cell Decline in Human Dermal Fibroblast Skin Cell Viability
by
Jessica Moor, Amy Bowman, Hina Choudhary, Jonathan Brookes, Patricia Brieva and Mark Anthony Birch-Machin
Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 128; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030128 - 19 Jun 2025
Abstract
The first part of the study shows that four commercial sun protection SPF 50 products provide statistically significant (all p < 0.021) protection by reducing the amount of UV-induced mitochondrial (mtDNA) damage in human dermal fibroblast skin cells (i.e., 320% protection). mtDNA damage
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The first part of the study shows that four commercial sun protection SPF 50 products provide statistically significant (all p < 0.021) protection by reducing the amount of UV-induced mitochondrial (mtDNA) damage in human dermal fibroblast skin cells (i.e., 320% protection). mtDNA damage has been shown to be an effective and reliable biomarker of skin damage and plays a key role in the ageing process. The second part of the study investigates a sub-set, namely two of the four commercial sun protection products. Both products significantly protect (both p < 0.014) against the longer wavelength blue light induced decrease in a different biomarker, namely the viability of human dermal fibroblast skin cells.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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Open AccessReview
Evolution of Thread Lifting: Advancing Toward Bioactive Polymers and Sustained Hyaluronic Acid Delivery
by
Pavel Burko and Ilias Miltiadis
Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 127; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030127 - 18 Jun 2025
Abstract
Facial aging is a multifactorial and stratified biological process characterized by progressive morphological and biochemical alterations affecting both cutaneous (Layer I) and subcutaneous (Layer II) tissues. These age-related changes manifest clinically as volume depletion, tissue ptosis, and a decline in overall skin quality.
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Facial aging is a multifactorial and stratified biological process characterized by progressive morphological and biochemical alterations affecting both cutaneous (Layer I) and subcutaneous (Layer II) tissues. These age-related changes manifest clinically as volume depletion, tissue ptosis, and a decline in overall skin quality. In response to these phenomena, thread lifting techniques have evolved significantly—from simple mechanical suspension methods to sophisticated bioactive platforms. Contemporary threads now incorporate biocompatible polymers and hyaluronic acid (HA), aiming not only to reposition soft tissues but also to promote dermal regeneration. This review provides a comprehensive classification and critical assessment of thread lifting materials, focusing on their chemical composition, mechanical performance, degradation kinetics, and biostimulatory potential. Particular emphasis has been given to the surface integration of HA into monofilament threads, especially with the emergence of advanced delivery systems such as NAMICA, which facilitate sustained HA release. Advanced thread materials, especially those fabricated from poly(L-lactide-co-ε-caprolactone) [P(LA/CL)], demonstrate both tensile support and regenerative efficacy. Emerging HA-covered threads exhibit synergistic bioactivity, stimulating skin remodeling. NAMICA technology represents an advancement in the field, in which HA is encapsulated within biodegradable polymer fibers to enable gradual release and enhanced dermal integration. Nonetheless, well-designed human studies are still needed to substantiate its therapeutic efficacy. Consequently, the paradigm of thread lifting is shifting from purely mechanical interventions toward biologically active systems that promote comprehensive ECM regeneration. The integration of HA into resorbable threads, especially when combined with sustained-release technologies, represents a meaningful innovation in aesthetic dermatology, meriting further preclinical and clinical evaluation.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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Open AccessArticle
Deodorizing Activity of Hop Bitter Acids and Their Oxidation Products Against Allyl Methyl Sulfide, a Major Contributor to Unpleasant Garlic-Associated Breath and Body Odor
by
Atsushi Henmi, Tsutomu Sugino, Akira Sasaki, Kenichi Nakamura and Masakuni Okuhara
Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 126; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030126 - 17 Jun 2025
Abstract
Garlic is a spice widely used worldwide, but ingestion of garlic can cause unpleasant breath odor that can be offensive in interpersonal interactions. Among several sulfur-containing components of garlic, allyl methyl sulfide is considered the primary causative agent of unpleasant garlic breath and
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Garlic is a spice widely used worldwide, but ingestion of garlic can cause unpleasant breath odor that can be offensive in interpersonal interactions. Among several sulfur-containing components of garlic, allyl methyl sulfide is considered the primary causative agent of unpleasant garlic breath and body odor. We discovered that hop cone powder exhibits potent deodorizing activity against allyl methyl sulfide. Oxidation products of the hop bitter acids humulinone and hulupone were detected in a partially purified sample of hop cone powder. Oxidation products of the α-acids cohumulinone and n-humulinone showed approximately 10- and 15-fold stronger deodorizing activity than the parent α-acids, respectively. The deodorizing activity of oxidation products of β-acids was comparable to that of n-humulinone. It is presumed that the oxidation products of hop powder play an important role in the strong deodorizing activity of hop cone powder against allyl methyl sulfide.
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(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
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Open AccessArticle
The Effectiveness of a Topical Rosehip Oil Treatment on Facial Skin Characteristics: A Pilot Study on Wrinkles, UV Spots Reduction, Erythema Mitigation, and Age-Related Signs
by
Diana Patricia Oargă (Porumb), Mihaiela Cornea-Cipcigan, Silvia Amalia Nemeș and Mirela Irina Cordea
Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 125; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030125 - 16 Jun 2025
Abstract
Skin aging is a complex process influenced by several factors, including UV exposure, environmental stressors, and lifestyle choices. The demand for effective, natural skincare products has driven research into plant-based oils rich in bioactive compounds. Rosehip oil has garnered attention for its high
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Skin aging is a complex process influenced by several factors, including UV exposure, environmental stressors, and lifestyle choices. The demand for effective, natural skincare products has driven research into plant-based oils rich in bioactive compounds. Rosehip oil has garnered attention for its high content of carotenoids, phenolics, and antioxidants, which are known for their anti-aging, photoprotective, and skin-rejuvenating properties. Despite the growing interest in rosehip oil, limited studies have investigated its efficacy on human skin using advanced imaging technologies. This study aims to fill this gap by evaluating the efficacy of cold-pressed Rosa canina seed oil on facial skin characteristics, specifically wrinkles, ultraviolet (UV) spot reduction, and erythema mitigation, using imaging technologies (the VISIA analysis system). Seed oil pressed from R. canina collected from the Băișoara area of Cluj County has been selected for this study due to its high carotenoid, phenolic, and antioxidant contents. The oil has also been analyzed for the content of individual carotenoids (i.e., lutein, lycopene, β Carotene, and zeaxanthin) using HPLC-DAD (High-Performance Liquid Chromatography—Diode Array Detector), along with lutein and zeaxanthin esters and diesters. After the preliminary screening of multiple Rosa species for carotenoid, phenolic, and antioxidant contents, the R. canina sample with the highest therapeutic potential was selected. A cohort of 27 volunteers (aged 30–65) underwent a five-week treatment protocol, wherein three drops of the selected rosehip oil were topically applied to the face daily. The VISIA imaging was conducted before and after the treatment to evaluate changes in skin parameters, including the wrinkle depth, UV-induced spots, porphyrins, and texture. Regarding the bioactivities, rosehip oil showed a significant total carotenoids content (28.398 μg/mL), with the highest levels in the case of the β-carotene (4.49 μg/mL), lutein (4.33 μg/mL), and zexanthin (10.88 μg/mL) contents. Results indicated a significant reduction in mean wrinkle scores across several age groups, with notable improvements in individuals with deeper baseline wrinkles. UV spots also showed visible declines, suggesting ideal photoprotective and anti-pigmentary effects attributable to the oil’s high vitamin A and carotenoid content. Porphyrin levels, often correlated with bacterial activity, decreased in most subjects, hinting at an additional antimicrobial or microbiome-modulatory property. However, skin responses varied, possibly due to individual differences in skin sensitivity, environmental factors, or compliance with sun protection. Overall, the topical application of R. canina oil appeared to improve the facial skin quality, reduce the appearance of age-related markers, and support skin health. These findings reinforce the potential use of rosehip oil in anti-aging skincare formulations. Further long-term, large-scale studies are warranted to refine dosing regimens, investigate mechanisms of action, and explore synergistic effects with other bioactive compounds.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)
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Open AccessArticle
Multi-Target Anti-Aging Mechanisms of Multani Mitti (Fuller’s Earth): Integrating Enzyme Inhibition and Molecular Docking for Cosmeceuticals
by
Muhammad Javid Iqbal, Pía Loren, Viviana Burgos and Luis A. Salazar
Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 124; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030124 - 13 Jun 2025
Abstract
The growing demand for natural anti-aging ingredients necessitates scientific validation of traditional cosmetic materials. Multani Mitti (MM), a clay widely used in South Asian traditional skincare, lacks comprehensive chemical and biological characterization. This study employed a multi-analytical approach to investigate MM’s anti-aging potential
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The growing demand for natural anti-aging ingredients necessitates scientific validation of traditional cosmetic materials. Multani Mitti (MM), a clay widely used in South Asian traditional skincare, lacks comprehensive chemical and biological characterization. This study employed a multi-analytical approach to investigate MM’s anti-aging potential through chemical analysis, enzyme inhibition studies, and in silico evaluations. Five commercial MM samples were pooled and analyzed using instrumental neutron activation analysis (INAA) and Gas Chromatography–Mass Spectrometry (GC-MS). INAA revealed silicon as the predominant inorganic constituent (169.3742 mg/g), while GC-MS identified 13 bioactive compounds, with Beta-sitosterol (15.45% area), Docosanamide (12.36% area), and Cyclohexasiloxane (9.80% area) being the most abundant. MM demonstrated significant enzyme inhibition against key aging-related enzymes, with notably strong effects on hyaluronidase (IC50: 18 μg/mL) and tyrosinase (IC50: 27 μg/mL), outperforming standard inhibitors. The antioxidant activity showed moderate effectiveness (IC50: 31.938 μg/mL) compared to ascorbic acid (IC50: 8.5 μg/mL). Molecular docking studies of identified compounds against hyaluronidase (PDB: 1FCV) and tyrosinase (PDB: 3NQ1) revealed Beta-sitosterol and Benzyl-piperazine-carboxamide as the most promising candidates, showing strong binding affinities (−8.5 and −8.6 kcal/mol, respectively) and favorable ADMET profiles. This comprehensive characterization provides the first scientific evidence supporting MM’s traditional use in skincare and identifies specific compounds that may contribute to its anti-aging properties, warranting further investigation for modern cosmetic applications.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)
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