Cosmetics

17 pages, 1085 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Chamomile Matters: Species- and Producer-Dependent Variation in Bulgarian Matricaria recutita L. and Chamaemelum nobile L. Essential Oils and Their Cosmetic Potential

by Daniela Batovska, Natalina Panova, Anelia Gerasimova, Yulian Tumbarski, Ivan Ivanov, Ivayla Dincheva, Ina Yotkovska, Galia Gentscheva and Krastena Nikolova

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 123; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030123 - 13 Jun 2025

Abstract

Chamomile essential oils (EOs) are widely used in cosmetics for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. Bulgaria, with its long-standing tradition in EO production, provides an ideal setting to examine the influence of species and cultivation practices on oil quality. This study compares [...] Read more.

Chamomile essential oils (EOs) are widely used in cosmetics for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. Bulgaria, with its long-standing tradition in EO production, provides an ideal setting to examine the influence of species and cultivation practices on oil quality. This study compares the chemical composition and biological activity of EOs from German chamomile (Matricaria recutita L.) and Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile L.), sourced from two major Bulgarian producers—Bulgarska Bilka Ltd. and Kateko Ltd. (Plovdiv, Bulgaria). Gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC–MS) profiling revealed species- and producer-dependent differences. German chamomile EOs were rich in β-farnesene, chamazulene, and bisabolol oxides, whereas Roman chamomile EOs were dominated by isobutyl angelate and related esters. Antioxidant activity, assessed via the ABTS assay, was higher in German chamomile EOs, especially from Bulgarska Bilka Ltd. The oils also showed photoprotective potential, with SPF values of 26–27 for German and 9–16 for Roman chamomile. Anti-inflammatory activity, evaluated by inhibition of albumin denaturation, was highest in Roman chamomile oils and comparable to that of prednisolone, while German chamomile also showed strong effects. Antimicrobial activity was generally low, with moderate effects observed only against Penicillium chrysogenum and Aspergillus flavus. These findings support the targeted use of chamomile EOs in cosmetics—German chamomile for antioxidant-rich, UV-protective, and microbiome-supportive care, and Roman chamomile for soothing, anti-inflammatory, and fragrance-enhancing applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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21 pages, 3616 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Exploration of Salak Peel Extract Activities for Cosmeceutical Applications and Its Encapsulation in Ethosomes Using Green Method

by Supreeda Tambunlertchai, Raweewan Thiramanas, Yodsathorn Wongngam, Pimnipa Yodkrahom, Sornsawan Batthong, Kunat Suktham, Suvimol Surassmo, Udom Asawapirom and Duangporn Polpanich

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 122; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030122 - 12 Jun 2025

Abstract

Salak peel extract has various biological properties befitting cosmeceutical applications; however, their practical uses are still limited due to their low water solubility and stability. Encapsulation technology was employed to alleviate these issues. In this work, we presented a simple method to prepare [...] Read more.

Salak peel extract has various biological properties befitting cosmeceutical applications; however, their practical uses are still limited due to their low water solubility and stability. Encapsulation technology was employed to alleviate these issues. In this work, we presented a simple method to prepare ethosome-encapsulated salak peel extract using green solvents (ethanol and water). For this purpose, we used 95% ethanol to extract salak peel and explored its activities. Results showed that, in addition to anti-oxidant, the extract also showed anti-tyrosinase, anti-inflammatory, and anti-bacterial (against S. aureus) activities. These activities indicate its potential uses in cosmeceutical applications. We further encapsulated the extract in ethosomes using a stirrer and green solvents for the preparation methods. The yielded ethosomes exhibited a size range of 120 to 205 nm, polydispersity index (PDI) of 0.15 to 0.25, and zeta potential of −35 to −60 mV depending on the amount of L-α-phosphatidylcholine used. The highest encapsulation efficiency was approximately 30%. The antiradical capacity and anti-inflammatory activities of salak peel extract were also found to be maintained after the encapsulation process. An in vitro biocompatibility study of the extract after encapsulation was also performed. The results not only indicated good biocompatibility, but also the potential skin-rejuvenating ability of salak peel ethosomes. A stability study was also performed, and the results suggested that these ethosomes were stable at different conditions. With further investigation, salak peel ethosomes, as presented here, can be suitable for cosmeceutical applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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13 pages, 1678 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Heat-Treated Probiotics’ Role in Counteraction of Skin UVs-Induced Damage In Vitro

by Giorgia Mondadori, Angela Amoruso, Annalisa Visciglia, Giovanni Deusebio, Daniela Pinto, Marco Pane and Fabio Rinaldi

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 121; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030121 - 11 Jun 2025

Abstract

Prolonged exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiations represents a significant risk factor and may lead to various skin disorders, premature aging, and an increased susceptibility to skin cancers. Recently, probiotics have emerged as promising candidates for fortifying the skin’s natural defences through their diverse [...] Read more.

Prolonged exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiations represents a significant risk factor and may lead to various skin disorders, premature aging, and an increased susceptibility to skin cancers. Recently, probiotics have emerged as promising candidates for fortifying the skin’s natural defences through their diverse mechanisms. The aim of the present work was exploring the potential of five heat-treated probiotics (Skinbac^TM, Probiotical Research S.r.l., Novara, Italy), as protective agents against UVA and UVB damages on human keratinocyte line (HaCaT) and human skin 3D model (Phenion^® Full-Thickness Skin Model, Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, Dusseldorf, Germany). The protective role toward artificially induced oxidative stress was evaluated by determining the residual viability after UV exposure and analyzing gene expression of markers involved in apoptosis (Tumor protein 53), inflammation/immunosuppression (Interleukin 6), oxidative stress (oxidative stress response enzyme heme oxygenase 1), investigated using quantitative real-time PCR. Additionally, we examined the protective effects of these strains, testing them on Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK) irradiated with UVC, specifically, evaluating the expression of tight junction proteins, including claudin 1, claudin 4, and occludin, by ELISA. The tested heat-treated probiotics effectively protected from UVA, UVB, and UVC damage on all end points analyzed, revealing their capacity to enhance barrier protection in cases of damage and their potential for innovative skincare strategies centered around probiotic-based formulations for enhanced protection against UV-induced skin damage. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Laser Therapy and Phototherapy in Cosmetic Dermatology)

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12 pages, 841 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Evaluating Skin Acid–Base Balance After Application of Cold-Processed and Hot-Processed Natural Soaps: A Double-Blind pH Monitoring Study

by Julita Zdrada-Nowak, Sandra Aniołkowska and Małgorzata Deska

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 120; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030120 - 11 Jun 2025

Abstract

Maintaining the physiological acid–base balance of the skin is critical to preserving the integrity of the epidermal barrier and preventing irritation. This study investigates the short-term effects of natural soaps, prepared using cold and hot processes, on skin surface pH. A double-blind, controlled [...] Read more.

Maintaining the physiological acid–base balance of the skin is critical to preserving the integrity of the epidermal barrier and preventing irritation. This study investigates the short-term effects of natural soaps, prepared using cold and hot processes, on skin surface pH. A double-blind, controlled design was applied to assess changes in pH following application of soap formulations. pH levels were measured in vivo using non-invasive instrumentation at baseline and 2, 15 and 30 min post-application in 41 adult volunteers. The results demonstrated a significant increase in skin pH immediately after exposure to both types of natural soap, with elevated values persisting for up to 30 min. These changes were associated with potential disruption of the skin’s acid mantle and reduced buffering capacity. The findings highlight the importance of pH considerations in the formulation and routine use of natural cleansers. Although natural soaps are often perceived as gentle alternatives, their alkalinity may transiently disturb the skin’s acid–base homeostasis, potentially leading to increased transepidermal water loss and barrier impairment. This study supports the need for reformulation strategies and consumer awareness regarding the physicochemical impact of cleansing agents on skin health. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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15 pages, 18796 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Study of the Repair Action and Mechanisms of a Moisturizing Cream on an SLS-Damaged Skin Model Using Two-Photon Microscopy

by Yixin Shen, Ying Ye, Lina Wang, Huiping Hu, Caixia Wang, Yuxuan Wu, Dingqiao Lin, Jiaqi Shen, Hong Zhang, Yanan Li and Peiwen Sun

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 119; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030119 - 10 Jun 2025

Abstract

This study evaluates the efficacy of a novel moisturizing cream using a sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)-induced skin damage model, supported by advanced imaging with two-photon microscopy (TPM). TPM’s capabilities allow for in-depth, non-invasive visualization of skin repair processes, surpassing traditional imaging methods. The [...] Read more.

This study evaluates the efficacy of a novel moisturizing cream using a sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)-induced skin damage model, supported by advanced imaging with two-photon microscopy (TPM). TPM’s capabilities allow for in-depth, non-invasive visualization of skin repair processes, surpassing traditional imaging methods. The innovative formulation of the cream includes ceramide NP, ceramide NS, ceramide AP, lactobacillus/soybean ferment extract, and bacillus ferment, targeting the enhancement of skin hydration, barrier function, and structural integrity. In SLS-stimulated 3D skin models and clinical settings, the cream significantly improved the expression of key barrier proteins such as filaggrin (FLG), loricrin (LOR), and transglutaminase 1 (TGM1), while reducing inflammatory markers like IL-1α, TNF-α, and PGE2. Notably, the cream facilitated a significant increase in epidermal thickness and improved the dermal–epidermal junction index (DEJI), as observed through TPM, indicating profound skin repair and enhanced barrier functionality. Clinical trials further demonstrated the cream’s reparative effects, significantly reducing symptoms in participants with sensitive skin and post-intense pulsed light (IPL) treatment scenarios. This study highlights the utility of TPM as a groundbreaking tool in cosmetic dermatology, offering real-time analysis of the effects of skincare products on skin structure and function. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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20 pages, 2388 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Role of Emulsifiers and SPF Booster in Sunscreen Performance: Assessing SPF, Rheological Behavior, Texture, and Stability

by Miroslava Špaglová, Paula Čermáková, Patrícia Jackuliaková and Juraj Piešťanský

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 118; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030118 - 5 Jun 2025

Abstract

This study investigates the impact of emulsifier substitution and booster concentration on sunscreen characteristics, including physical properties, the sun protection factor (SPF), and sensory attributes. The impact of substituting Polysorbate^® 80 with Beautyderm^® K10 as an emulsifier in sunscreen formulations, along [...] Read more.

This study investigates the impact of emulsifier substitution and booster concentration on sunscreen characteristics, including physical properties, the sun protection factor (SPF), and sensory attributes. The impact of substituting Polysorbate^® 80 with Beautyderm^® K10 as an emulsifier in sunscreen formulations, along with the effect of increasing concentrations of the Sunhancer™ Eco SPF Booster, was thoroughly evaluated. Spectrophotometric methods were used to determine SPF, while texture analysis and rheological measurements assessed physical characteristics. Stability was evaluated using a centrifuge stress test, and sensory analysis was conducted on the top-performing formulation. The results indicated that the choice of emulsifier and booster concentration significantly influenced SPF values and stability. The influence of booster concentration on textural properties was most significant in formulations containing Beautyderm^®. Centrifuge testing revealed phase separation in certain formulations. Notably, the formulations that exhibited the greatest stability were those in which Beautyderm^® was combined with either Polysorbate^® or Span^®. Following the stability test results, the cream formulation containing Beautyderm^® and Polysorbate^® as emulsifiers was further evaluated through sensory analysis. Independent assessors determined that the sensory attributes of the cream did not undergo significant changes even when zinc oxide was added at a concentration of 1% (w/w) to the formulation. These findings underscore the importance of carefully selecting emulsifiers and boosters to achieve high sun protection efficacy, stability, and desirable sensory properties in sunscreen formulations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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20 pages, 2336 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Anti-Inflammatory Effects of Nephelium lappaceum Peel Extract and Geraniin on External Skin Stimulation

by Eun-Jeong Lee, Soo-Mi Ahn, Youn-Hee Nam, Myo-Deok Kim, Chan-Song Jo, Bin-Na Hong, Youn-Ki Cho and Jae-Sung Hwang

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 117; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030117 - 4 Jun 2025

Abstract

Geraniin is the major compound in Nephelium lappaceum peel and exhibits significant immunomodulatory effects. So, this study aimed to evaluate the anti-inflammatory effects of Nephelium lappaceum peel extract and geraniin through in vitro experiments and clinical trials. In vitro, inflammatory responses were induced [...] Read more.

Geraniin is the major compound in Nephelium lappaceum peel and exhibits significant immunomodulatory effects. So, this study aimed to evaluate the anti-inflammatory effects of Nephelium lappaceum peel extract and geraniin through in vitro experiments and clinical trials. In vitro, inflammatory responses were induced using UV, IR, SDS, LPS, and RA, followed by treatment with the Nephelium lappaceum peel extract and geraniin. The results demonstrated significant reductions in inflammatory cytokines, indicating potent anti-inflammatory properties. Based on these promising results, clinical trials were conducted to assess the effects of the Nephelium lappaceum peel extract on skin barrier function using various irritants, including IR, UV, SDS, Retinol, and tape stripping. Measurements of transepidermal water loss and erythema were performed to evaluate the extract’s protective effects. The results indicated that Nephelium lappaceum peel extract effectively mitigated skin barrier damage and reduced erythema, confirming its potential as a skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory agent. This study suggests that Nephelium lappaceum peel extract, rich in bioactive compounds such as geraniin, can be utilized in the development of cosmetic products aimed at reducing skin inflammation and protecting against environmental irritants. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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12 pages, 375 KiB

Open AccessArticle

An Analytical Framework for the Selective Extraction and Determination of Nine Multiclass Endocrine-Disrupting Chemicals from Haircare Products

by Ilaria Neri, Ritamaria Di Lorenzo, Giacomo Russo, Teresa Di Serio, Lucia Grumetto and Sonia Laneri

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 116; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030116 - 3 Jun 2025

Abstract

Humans are exposed to pollutants daily through various routes, including skin contact. A key concern is the presence of endocrine-disrupting chemicals, which means they can mimic, block or interfere with the body’s natural hormones, in many everyday items, among which are personal care [...] Read more.

Humans are exposed to pollutants daily through various routes, including skin contact. A key concern is the presence of endocrine-disrupting chemicals, which means they can mimic, block or interfere with the body’s natural hormones, in many everyday items, among which are personal care products. We set up a chromatographic method to simultaneously assess the occurrence of nine endocrine disruptors and to verify the compliance with mandatory regulations concerning the potential fraudulent additions of preservatives. A total of twenty-six haircare products were collected and analyzed. The limits of detection ranged from 0.052 μg mL⁻¹ to 1.744 μg mL⁻¹, while the limits of quantification ranged from 0.175 μg mL⁻¹ to 5.815 μg mL⁻¹, respectively. Analyte recovery was between 66% and 87%, demonstrating the accuracy of the method in these target formulations. Even if the recovered quantity of parabens did not exceed the legal limits, the analysis detected bis(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP) in 2 real samples and dibutyl phthalate (DBP) in all 26 samples, with concentrations ranging from 151.01 μg/100 g to 1042.58 μg/100 g. Although the European Union regulates the quantity of potentially harmful compounds in consumer goods, repeated use of certain products, such as haircare formulations, could result in chronic exposure to several endocrine disruptors. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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17 pages, 1014 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Design of a Novel DNA-FISH Probe for the Rapid Identification of Candida albicans in Cosmetic Products

by Patrícia Branco, Margarida Nunes, Paula Pereira and Elisabete Muchagato Mauricio

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 115; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030115 - 3 Jun 2025

Abstract

Microbiological quality control in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products is crucial for consumer safety. Traditional culture-based detection methods, such as plating on selective media, are time-consuming and may lack sensitivity. Fluorescence In Situ Hybridisation (FISH), a molecular and culture-independent technique, enables rapid and precise [...] Read more.

Microbiological quality control in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products is crucial for consumer safety. Traditional culture-based detection methods, such as plating on selective media, are time-consuming and may lack sensitivity. Fluorescence In Situ Hybridisation (FISH), a molecular and culture-independent technique, enables rapid and precise microbial identification by targeting specific RNA or DNA sequences with fluorescent probes. In this study, a novel DNA-FISH probe was developed for the detection of Candida albicans in cosmetic formulations. The probe’s specificity was assessed in silico and experimentally using flow cytometry (flow-FISH) on C. albicans and non-target microorganisms, including Pichia kudriavzevii, commonly known as Candida krusei, Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Wickerhamomyces anomalus, Escherichia coli, and Staphylococcus aureus. The probe exhibited 98.9% hybridization efficiency with C. albicans, yielding a fluorescence intensity (FI) of 25,000 (a.u.), while non-target yeasts demonstrated minimal hybridization (4.7%, 2.3%, and 1.9% for C. krusei, S. cerevisiae, and W. anomalus, respectively) and bacteria showed negligible FI. Additionally, the probe’s applicability was evaluated in a tonic formulation, where C. albicans’ hybridization efficiency was slightly reduced to 88.4%, suggesting that formulation components may influence probe performance. Nevertheless, the probe maintained high specificity and efficiency without formamide, a toxic reagent commonly used in FISH. These findings highlight the potential of FISH probes for rapid, accurate, and safe microbial detection, offering a valuable tool for microbiological quality control in the cosmetics industry. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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10 pages, 1067 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Improvement in Wrinkles by a Fairy Chemical, 2-Aza-8-oxohypoxanthine

by Hisae Aoshima, Rinta Ibuki and Hirokazu Kawagishi

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 114; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030114 - 3 Jun 2025

Abstract

2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine (AOH) has been shown to improve skin barrier function according to DNA microarray studies of normal human epidermal keratinocytes. This study aimed to evaluate the cosmetic efficacy of AOH in wrinkle improvement. A 12-week clinical trial involved 23 women (mean age 44 [...] Read more.

2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine (AOH) has been shown to improve skin barrier function according to DNA microarray studies of normal human epidermal keratinocytes. This study aimed to evaluate the cosmetic efficacy of AOH in wrinkle improvement. A 12-week clinical trial involved 23 women (mean age 44 ± 8 years), who applied 0.01% or 0.05% AOH lotion to each half of their face twice daily. Skin assessments were conducted before and after application at 4, 8, and 12 weeks by measuring stratum corneum water content using a Corneometer and evaluating wrinkles through image analysis of replicas. Application of the lotion enhanced stratum corneum water content. Use of 0.01% AOH reduced the wrinkle area percentage and maximum wrinkle depth at 8 and 12 weeks post-application, respectively. The 0.05% lotion showed a significant reduction in the wrinkle area percentage and mean maximum wrinkle depth at 12 weeks and a significant decrease in maximum wrinkle depth at 4 weeks. A between-group comparison revealed that the 0.05% AOH lotion significantly reduced mean maximum wrinkle depth compared to the 0.01% AOH lotion at 8 and 12 weeks, indicating a concentration-dependent effect of AOH. Overall, AOH improves wrinkles in a concentration-dependent manner, confirming its efficacy as a cosmetic ingredient for wrinkle improvement. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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19 pages, 2591 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Natural Mineral Water–Plant Extract Combinations as Potential Anti-Aging Ingredients: An In Vitro Evaluation

by Carolina P. Gomes, Ana S. Oliveira, Joana Rolo, Tayse F. F. da Silveira, Rita Palmeira de Oliveira, Maria José Alves, Paula Plasencia and Ana Palmeira de Oliveira

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 113; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030113 - 28 May 2025

Abstract

Natural mineral waters (NMWs) and plant extracts have long been valued for their therapeutic properties and skin benefits. This study investigated, in vitro, the role of five Portuguese NMWs (A-E), combined with plant extracts from five species (Ficus carica L., Rubus idaeus [...] Read more.

Natural mineral waters (NMWs) and plant extracts have long been valued for their therapeutic properties and skin benefits. This study investigated, in vitro, the role of five Portuguese NMWs (A-E), combined with plant extracts from five species (Ficus carica L., Rubus idaeus L., Vaccinium myrtillus, Cistus ladanifer and Thymus x citriodorus) as bioactive ingredients. Antioxidant capacity was assessed using the 2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) method. Cellular biocompatibility was evaluated in fibroblasts (L929) and macrophages (RAW 264.7). Skin-repairing and anti-senescence properties were evaluated in L929 cells through the scratch-wound method and β-galactosidase assay. Superoxide dismutase (SOD) was quantified using a commercial kit, and lipopolysaccharide-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) were quantified using a fluorescent probe (H₂DCFDA) in RAW 264.7. The results highlighted the beneficial impact of extracts combined with NMWs. An increase in antioxidant capacity of up to 90% was observed in mixtures comprising Ficus carica L., compared with NMWs alone. In contrast, mixtures with Cistus ladanifer showed promising anti-aging potential, with a 40% decrease in senescent cells and a 33% ROS reduction. Rubus idaeus L. extract produced an increase in cell migration capacity (up to 50%), depending on the NMW. This study highlights the potential synergism of natural ingredients with plant extracts for anti-aging. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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16 pages, 1793 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Exploring Skin Biometrics, Sensory Profiles, and Rheology of Two Photoprotective Formulations with Natural Extracts: A Commercial Product Versus a Vegan Test Formulation

by Karine Campos Nunes, Bruna Lendzion Alves, Rafaela Said dos Santos, Lennon Alonso de Araújo, Rosângela Bergamasco, Marcos Luciano Bruschi, Tânia Ueda-Nakamura, Sueli de Oliveira Silva Lautenschlager and Celso Vataru Nakamura

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 112; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030112 - 27 May 2025

Abstract

Cumulative exposure to UV radiation can lead to harmful effects such as skin burns, photoaging, and skin cancer, thus highlighting the importance of using photoprotective formulations. Many sunscreens are vegan and have antioxidant substances to ensure additional photochemoprotective action. We evaluated biophysical, rheological, [...] Read more.

Cumulative exposure to UV radiation can lead to harmful effects such as skin burns, photoaging, and skin cancer, thus highlighting the importance of using photoprotective formulations. Many sunscreens are vegan and have antioxidant substances to ensure additional photochemoprotective action. We evaluated biophysical, rheological, and sensorial parameters of Face Care Facial Moisturizing Cream^® (P1) and a vegan formulation (P2) by in vitro and in vivo tests. Sun Protection Factor (SPF) was evaluated by Mansur method. Biophysical parameters were analyzed: sebum content, hydration level, transepidermal water loss, erythema and melanin level, skin color, and skin pH. The acceptance profile of the formulations was determined using a 9-point hedonic scale and a 5-point purchase intention test. The SPF values of P1 and P2 obtained by in vitro tests were 25.21 and 12.10, respectively. They also exhibited pseudoplastic and thixotropic behavior, which could contribute to better spreadability and form a protective film. Biometric tests showed an increase in hydration and skin sebum, decreased erythema, and maintenance of skin pH after application of both formulations. The comparison of a commercialized product and a vegan test version showed similar rheological and great acceptance profiles. Therefore, the vegan formulation is a good alternative to reach a different market. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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12 pages, 1339 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Two-Photon Microscopy for the Investigation of Morphological and Quantitative Changes in Skin Chrono- and Photo-Aging

by Stefano Bighetti, Chiara Rovati, Luca Bettolini, Mariachiara Arisi, Mariateresa Rossi, Cosetta Ravelli, Sara Rovaris, Marina Venturini, Stefania Mitola and Piergiacomo Calzavara-Pinton

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 111; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030111 - 26 May 2025

Abstract

Introduction: Skin aging is influenced both by intrinsic factors and environmental exposures, such as UV radiation, which accelerate structural changes within the skin’s extracellular matrix (ECM). Understanding these changes is crucial for developing effective anti-aging treatments. Materials and Methods: This pilot cross-sectional study [...] Read more.

Introduction: Skin aging is influenced both by intrinsic factors and environmental exposures, such as UV radiation, which accelerate structural changes within the skin’s extracellular matrix (ECM). Understanding these changes is crucial for developing effective anti-aging treatments. Materials and Methods: This pilot cross-sectional study examined skin biopsy samples from three Caucasian male subjects with different levels of UV exposure, aiming to evaluate the effectiveness of two-photon microscopy (2PM) and Second Harmonic Generation (SHG) in visualizing and quantifying structural changes associated with skin aging. The samples were analyzed using 2PM to assess the structure and density of collagen and elastin fibers within the ECM. Integrated optical density (IOD) and the SHG-to-Autofluorescence Aging Index of the Dermis (SAAID) were used for quantitative analysis. Results: This study revealed a significant decrease in collagen density and increased disorganization in the ECM with age. Photo-exposed skin showed a more pronounced degradation of collagen and a higher increase in elastin content compared to non-photo-exposed skin. The average IOD for collagen was notably lower in elderly subjects compared to younger subjects, with a marked decrease in chronically photo-exposed skin. Discussion: The SAAID values indicated a substantial impact of photoaging, with lower scores in photo-exposed elderly skin compared to non-exposed skin. Conclusions: In conclusion, 2PM and SHG microscopy were effective in visualizing and quantifying age- and UV-induced skin remodeling, providing valuable insights into the distinct mechanisms driving intrinsic and extrinsic aging. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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2 pages, 510 KiB

Open AccessCorrection

Correction: Miranda et al. Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Potential of Brassica oleracea Accelerates Third-Degree Burn Healing in Rats. Cosmetics 2024, 11, 27

by Lyvia Lopes Miranda, Mariáurea Matias Sarandy, Luciana Schulthais Altoé, Daniel Silva Sena Bastos, Fabiana Cristina Silveira Alves Melo, Rômulo Dias Novaes, Debora Araújo Esposito and Reggiani Vilela Gonçalves

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 110; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030110 - 26 May 2025

Abstract

In the original publication [...] Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Anti-oxidant and Anti-inflammatory Properties of Natural Compounds - 2nd Edition)

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2 pages, 144 KiB

Open AccessEditorial

A Decade of Innovation: Celebrating 10 Years of Cosmetics

by Enzo Berardesca

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 109; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030109 - 26 May 2025

Abstract

It is with great pride and pleasure that we present this Special Issue, “Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics”, marking a significant milestone–a decade of Cosmetics serving as a vibrant platform for disseminating cutting-edge research in [...] Read more.

It is with great pride and pleasure that we present this Special Issue, “Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics”, marking a significant milestone–a decade of Cosmetics serving as a vibrant platform for disseminating cutting-edge research in cosmetic science [...] Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

15 pages, 2846 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Anti-Senescence and Anti-Photoaging Activities of Mangosteen Pericarp Extract on UVA-Induced Fibroblasts

by Kunlathida Luangpraditkun, Piyachat Kasemkiatsakul, Tanikan Sangnim, Somnathtai Yammen, Jinnipha Pajoubpong and Boonyadist Vongsak

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 108; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030108 - 23 May 2025

Abstract

Waste products from agricultural crops can become valuable if their benefits are discovered. Mangosteen, known as the “queen of fruits”, has a pericarp extract that has been reported to possess various biological activities, including antioxidation, anti-inflammation, antimicrobial activity, and UVB protection (in vitro [...] Read more.

Waste products from agricultural crops can become valuable if their benefits are discovered. Mangosteen, known as the “queen of fruits”, has a pericarp extract that has been reported to possess various biological activities, including antioxidation, anti-inflammation, antimicrobial activity, and UVB protection (in vitro and in vivo). In this work, we revealed that mangosteen pericarp extract (MPE) exhibits photoprotective properties in primary human dermal fibroblasts (PHDFs) exposed to ultraviolet A (UVA). The α-mangostin content, a major compound in MPE, was determined to be 60.9 ± 1.2% using HPLC. In an in vitro, cell-based assay, we first assessed the cytotoxicity of MPE on PHDFs using the MTT assay. The highest concentration of MPE that showed no cytotoxicity was 50.0 µg/mL. For antioxidative effects, MPE reduced intracellular ROS levels induced by H₂O₂, compared to H₂O₂-treated PHDFs. To assess the photoprotective effect of MPE, cells were pretreated with MPE for 24 h before exposure to UVA at an intensity of 5 J/cm². Our data demonstrated that MPE pretreatment reduced the accumulation of senescent cells compared to UVA-induced senescent cells (7.1 ± 2.4% vs. 12.0 ± 0.2%, respectively). In addition, we examined key aging-related markers, including matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1) and collagen type I. The expression level of MMP-1 levels was 23,873.4 ± 5498.1 pg/mL in MPE-treated, UVA-induced PHDFs, compared to 38,929.1 ± 6971.4 pg/mL in untreated UVA-induced PHDFs. Meanwhile, procollagen type I in MPE-pretreated PHDFs was 56,443.3 ± 3623.8 pg/mL, compared to 37,137.4 ± 4614.8 pg/mL in UVA-induced PHDFs. These experimental results highlight the photoprotective properties of Garcinia mangostana peel extract, which contains α-mangostin as a major compound, and suggest its potential as an active ingredient in cosmeceuticals for protecting against UVA-induced aging. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first study to report the photoprotective effects of MPE on UVA-induced senescent cells. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Useful from Useless: Development of Cosmetics from Agri-Food By-Products)

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24 pages, 2102 KiB

Open AccessReview

Peptides in Cosmetics: From Pharmaceutical Breakthroughs to Skincare Innovations

by Yuxiang Tang, Tong Nie, Lu Zhang, Xiaohui Liu and Haiteng Deng

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 107; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030107 - 23 May 2025

Abstract

Peptides are molecules composed of two or more amino acids linked by peptide bonds, and they play essential biological roles. In recent decades, peptides have become pivotal bioactive ingredients in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics due to their unique features. Originally developed for therapeutic purposes, [...] Read more.

Peptides are molecules composed of two or more amino acids linked by peptide bonds, and they play essential biological roles. In recent decades, peptides have become pivotal bioactive ingredients in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics due to their unique features. Originally developed for therapeutic purposes, peptides have gained popularity in the cosmetic field, providing solutions for anti-aging, whitening, moisturizing, and skin repair. Moreover, innovations such as artificial intelligence-assisted peptide design, efficient delivery systems, and the integration of multifunctional ingredients have significantly contributed to the industry’s rapid evolution. This review explores the historical milestones of peptides in medicine and cosmetics, delves into cutting-edge synthesis technologies, and dissects the molecular mechanisms behind their cosmetic properties. Research in medicinal peptides has promoted the development of cosmetic peptides. Despite their potential, challenges such as stability, bioavailability, and cost-effective production remain barriers to widespread adoption. Future studies should focus on enhancing peptide stability, developing synergistic formulations, and conducting large-scale clinical trials to validate long-term efficacy. With continuous innovation, peptides are poised to redefine the cosmetic industry, bridging the gap between pharmaceuticals and skincare for safer and more effective solutions. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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17 pages, 650 KiB

Open AccessReview

The Epidemiology of Acne in the Current Era: Trends and Clinical Implications

by Dumitrița Lenuța Guguluș, Dan Vâță, Ioana Adriana Popescu, Adriana Ionela Pătrașcu, Ioana Alina Halip, Mădălina Mocanu and Laura Gheucă Solovăstru

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 106; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030106 - 22 May 2025

Abstract

Acne is an inflammatory dermatosis of the pilosebaceous unit that remains highly prevalent worldwide. In recent decades, the epidemiological profile of acne has evolved, with a rising incidence observed not only among adolescents but also in adult populations, particularly adult women. The current [...] Read more.

Acne is an inflammatory dermatosis of the pilosebaceous unit that remains highly prevalent worldwide. In recent decades, the epidemiological profile of acne has evolved, with a rising incidence observed not only among adolescents but also in adult populations, particularly adult women. The current global prevalence is approximately 9.4%, reflecting its continued relevance as a public health concern. While early epidemiological studies were predominantly conducted in the United States and United Kingdom, recent data from diverse geographic regions highlight the need for updated, globally representative research. The Global Burden of Disease (GBD) initiative has recognized acne as a condition with a substantial impact on disability-adjusted life years (DALYs), underscoring its contribution to both physical and psychological morbidity. This review aims to synthesize current epidemiological findings, identify high-risk populations, and explore intrinsic and extrinsic factors influencing disease distribution and progression. A deeper understanding of acne’s epidemiology is essential to inform prevention strategies and improve outcomes in dermatological care. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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13 pages, 981 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Evaluating the Cosmetic Efficacy of Topical Micrococcus luteus Q24 Probiotic Balm: A Pilot Study in Healthy Adults

by Abigail L. Voss, Stephanie A. Mattison, Sonali S. Sali, John D. F. Hale and Rohit Jain

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 105; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030105 - 22 May 2025

Abstract

The skin microbiome is a focus for innovative skincare. This study investigated topical semi-solid balm formulations of Micrococcus luteus Q24, a live skin-native probiotic, to enhance skin quality parameters such as hydration, pores, pigmentation, wrinkles and dryness. Firstly, the compatibility and growth-promoting effects [...] Read more.

The skin microbiome is a focus for innovative skincare. This study investigated topical semi-solid balm formulations of Micrococcus luteus Q24, a live skin-native probiotic, to enhance skin quality parameters such as hydration, pores, pigmentation, wrinkles and dryness. Firstly, the compatibility and growth-promoting effects of prebiotics and functional actives on M. luteus Q24 were evaluated, identifying oil-based actives, including vitamin E and pomegranate seed oil, that significantly boosted bacterial growth compared to oatmeal, the sole effective prebiotic tested. Subsequently, a pilot cosmetic trial assessed two M. luteus Q24-enriched balms on healthy adults utilising a cutting-edge AI (Artificial Intelligence) driven skin analyser device. Balm B significantly reduced keratin levels, wrinkles, and pore size, and increased hydration, while Balm A effectively reduced spots and keratin. After 4 days of application, Balm A showed mean percentage reductions of 80% in pores, 20% in spots, 60% in wrinkles, and 100% in keratin scores, while Balm B exhibited mean percentage reductions of 100% in pores, 50% in spots, 67% in wrinkles, and 80% in keratin, with a 100% increase in hydration score. Both balms demonstrated compatibility and efficacy, highlighting the potential of M. luteus Q24 in improving skin parameters. These findings suggest that balms optimise the benefits of skin-specific probiotics for microbiome-friendly skincare. Future research with larger, placebo-controlled trials is needed to substantiate these preliminary findings. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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